DEFINING "ADJACENT"
Q. Is there any industry standard for determining the need for treatment of a house that has termites only in wood adjacent (6 inches away) from the house foundation? Is it necessary to require treatment for certification? (M.B., N.J.)
A. First, let’s start by stating that there is no "standard" in the industry. The National Pest Management Association issued a library update in June 1999 called "Termites Found Adjacent to the Structures During Inspections." There are many ramifications from this update and also some industry traditions to discuss. Also, state regulatory agencies may have different definitions than the information I will reference.
First, what does adjacent mean? Basically, from the information I know and from discussions with state regulatory officials, adjacent means three feet around the structure. If you go beyond three feet it is not adjacent to the structure. The bottom line is if termites are found infesting wood, mulch, trees, debris or whatever in these areas that are close to the structure, the inspector should inspect the foundation and inside the structure carefully to determine if there are any visible signs of infestation. Just finding termites in the wood "adjacent" to the structure does not constitute an infested structure.
However, if termites are found in these areas, traditionally the company has had the right to recommend treatment for protection of the structure. But, you cannot say the structure is infested.
As for the "requirement" for certification, you should report that the structure itself shows no visible signs of termite activity or damage and that there were termites found in the wood/mulch/debris/other items next to the foundation. It is up to you to recommend treatment. The more interesting question is if you find termites within the crawlspace in debris but no signs of a visible infestation, what then? As I interpret the NPMA guideline, any infestation or evidence found inside the foundation (including the crawl space), constitutes an infested structure. In a HUD/FHA-VA inspection, I believe most field offices would want the house treated. But it is up to each field office. Keep in mind that HUD is aware of the NPMA information.
HOMEOWNER RECOMMENDATIONS
Q. A potential customer has the following problem: As he began replacing the tiled shower in his South Florida home, he noticed considerable termite damage on three studs and is now trying to decide what to do. He is interested in baiting. Is an additional spot treatment around the shower needed? Does he have to replace/take out the damaged studs? (Z.R., Fla.)
A. The question does not indicate if the potential customer actually saw live termites — only that there was damage to the three studs. Suggest to the client that he has three options: 1) Have a pest control operator inspect the house and report any damage; 2) If termites are not found, then a preventive treatment with a baiting system (or a variety of other treatment options) can be used; and 3) Call in a person familiar with structural repairs and ask for an evaluation of the damaged studs.
I certainly would suggest to the homeowner that he look for evidence of previous treatment to the house. If no evidence is found, then perhaps a treatment would be advised to protect the structure. Let the customer know that baiting systems have been effective but that they have to be maintained and inspected per the label to assure they are getting the service required to detect and control termites around his structure. Other options include the use of liquid termiticides and maybe the use of borates on the now-exposed wood.
OLD HOUSE BORERS
Q. How would you treat an old house borer infestation in an exposed beam of a living area in a home? (The area cannot be fumigated.) What method(s) and what product(s) would be used? Are there any nonchemical methods available other than removing the wood? (R.M.)
A. I assume the beam is solid and fairly large-dimensional wood. Since I do not know how long the infestation has been going on or the age of the structure, I assume the pests have been positively identified as OHBs. My first choice would be to identify the areas with the most activity, drill into the wood and inject a borate solution. If the beam is finished, I would recommend removing that finish and spraying with a borate solution. After it dries the finish can be reapplied. The injection should get the borate into the area where the larvae are feeding and the surface application will stop any future reinfestation. Since the larvae of this beetle live a considerable length of time in the wood, injections get to the problem better than just spraying the surface.
Other options would be to spray the wood with any number of pesticides labeled for wood borers. This will kill adults as they emerge, stopping reinfestation. Nonchemical methods could include freezing or heat but would be similar to fumigation in scope and expense.
The author is president of George Rambo Consulting Services, Herndon, Va. Fax questions to him at 703/709-9637 or via e-mail at grambo@pctonline.com.
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