A swarm of bees tumbling out of a hive in pulsating bursts is one of nature’s most fascinating sights. It also can be a frustrating sight for the homeowner or the PCO charged with tackling a honeybee control problem.
What causes swarming? The beekeeper purchases the bees and equipment and nurtures the colony through the beginning of the honey flow. Now, for reasons known only to the bees themselves, they have abandoned their jobs, eaten up the precious profits, and absconded with the business to go on a rather mindless and carefree holiday at the beekeeper’s expense. In fact, one type of swarming is known as "absconding," a rather maverick, cross-country jaunt, usually resulting in total loss of the colony.
In addressing this problem, it might be helpful for the PCO to know what causes warming. Swarming is one of nature’s ways of dividing colonies to create new ones. In the wild, swarming propagates the species. In a man-made environment, swarming is often a symptom of problems within the hive and, rather than being a mindless activity, is a planned and calculated exodus on the part of the bees. The bees are attempting to solve problems of overcrowding, improper ventilation or starvation within the colony in much the same way people move from crowded cities to suburban areas to escape overcrowding, stressful living conditions, etc.
Swarming usually takes place in May or June in the North. Several days before swarming begins, the bees may be seen clustering at the entrance of their hive, though some swarms come out when there are no preliminary signs of an impending swarm.
The major causes of swarming are overcrowding, improper ventilation and supersedure impulses. All of the above result from improper conditions within the hive. If the beekeeper fails to diagnose these problems in time to take corrective measures, the bees will correct the situation in the only way nature has taught them - by swarming! Let’s review each of the major causes of swarming:
Overcrowding. If bees are crowded for room, it won’t be long before they prepare to swarm. Just before the main honey flow begins there is usually a lull in the activity of the colony. By this time the colony has reached its numerical peak and without abundant flowers in bloom there are thousands of bees with little or nothing to do. Even large colonies with the best of queens are frequently unable to stand the congestion of a crowded brood nest. This congestion throws the colony out of balance and queen cells are started in preparation of swarming.
Signs of overcrowding are relatively easy to spot. There will be bees hanging onto the front of the hive, hovering around the entrance and clustering about the corners of the hive. A congested brood nest is simply one that is out of free space.
Improper ventilation. This is a condition often associated with overcrowding. The presence of so many bees in the hive creates excessive heat. A sign of this condition may be bees fanning at the entrance of the hive attempting to lower temperatures inside by setting up a current of air moving through the hive. Bees may also cluster about the outside of the hive, unable to stand the excessive heat inside.
Supersedure. This is nature’s way of replacing a failing queen. The worker bees take matters into their own hands and construct queen cells in an attempt to replace their failing mother. Certain queens also are inferior to others in the quality and quantity of their brood, a factor which contributes to queen supersedure. Since supersedure may occur at the height of the hives prosperous period before honey flow, the colony may dovetail its swarming activity with its efforts to secure a new queen.
The preceding information, although written in beekeeper’s jargon, is designed to try to explain to the PCO what causes a swarm of bees in the spring or early summer. If a PCO receives a call about a swarm, he or she should contact the beekeeper(s) involved so the hive can be saved. If the owner of the hive(s) cannot be identified, contact your local county extension agent.
An older nest. The type of problem PCOs most frequently encounter is not a colony that is about to swarm, but rather an established colony or hive in the wall of a house, barn, shed or other structure. It is often tempting to go ahead and treat these areas with a bomb, dust or residual pesticide. But pesticides aren’t always the best solution.
In such cases, the colony should be exposed and physically removed without the use of chemicals. The honey and the wax also must be removed and cleaned up thoroughly since they act as a strong attractant to other bees interested in stealing the honey and bringing it back to an established colony. Any chemical used to control the population would contaminate the honey and make it unsuitable for consumption by either the bees or humans.
In addition, if the bees have been removed or eliminated and nothing has been done to remove the honey or wax, other scavenger bees may establish a new nest inside the wall or attract other insects. And on a hot, sunny day the wax could melt and honey could run down the walls and ceilings of the structure.
A valuable insect. Bees are highly beneficial insects. Wild and domesticated honeybees are normally docile and won’t disturb people when unprovoked. We, in turn, as PCOs and good stewards of our environment, should avoid harming them if at all possible. Through their efforts we all prosper and benefit.
___ Bob Pelletier
The author is with Ideal Spray co., Lynnfield, Mass.
REFERENCES
Resources used in compiling this article included: "First Lessons in Beekeeping," Dadent Publications #4-9; the Pest Sheet: "Controlling bees and Wasps Around the Home Area;" and "Beekeeping Topics," available from The Pennsylvania State university, Cooperative Extension Service, University Park, Pa. Thanks also to fellow associates Don Rivard and Dick Berman of Waltham chemical Co., Waltham, Mass, for their input and support.
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